Convert from A/T to M/T -S13 SOHC

This is a write up i did for the guys at You guys may find it useful as well. If you want to sticky it, it may be a good idea. Of course i get all those (how hard was it man???) questions, so you can read the in-depth review and find out yourself.

5spd Conversion

Pre-Step = Gather your parts
- 1) Tranny I payed 100$ -
- 2) 5spd Driveshaft 65$ -
- 3) Flywheel 35$ -
- 4) Clutch Kit 100$ -
- 5) Shifter -free with tranny -
- 6) Crossmember-with tranny -
- 7) Clutch Master Cyl 25$ -
- Clutch Slave Cyl 15$ - Haha the 8 ) is a smily, aww well.
- 9) Clutch Long Hard Line 20$ -
- 10) Clutch Rubber Line 20$ -
- 12) Clutch Pedal Assembly 25$-
- 13) Brake Fluid 3$ -
- 14) Synthetic Gear Oil 75w90 10$ -
- 15) Flywheel Bolts 24$ -
- 16) Belhousing bolts 15$ -
I think that does it for parts.

1) Remove your finisher plate from your console (runs around your shifter and your radio deck). Remove the console from your car, this is only 6 bolts or so and the whole damn thing comes out.
2) Next there will be 2 connecting harnesses that come out of your carpet and go to the a/t shifter, disconnect these from the connectors.
3) Now your going to want to remove the 4 bolts holding the a/t mounting plate in place. These bolts are going to be potentially tough to brake loose; I actually broke the weld holding down the opposite nut under the car trying to wrench these things out.
4) Take out the shifter and all the extra crap with it, you should be able see through the car, it’s just a whole in the carpet from there.
5) Next your going to want to take out your drive shaft, so on the differential side of the drive shaft there will be a 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft end to the differential. So remove those 4 bolts turning your tire to rotate the drive shaft. Be advised don’t use power tools on these bolts, you wont even be able to get a socket on then because of the way they are positioned. All wrenches guys.
6) Let that side hang on the floor then you going to want to remove your transmission fluid, I couldn’t find a dam nut anywhere to drain the stuff so I just pulled the pan off in aggravation.
7) Next take off the bracket that hold the middle of the drive shaft on, after this just slide the thing out effortlessly.
8 ) Ok more fun, now disconnect the exit end of the atf cooler line from the transmission on the passenger side. With all of this just directly cut all the wires right at the tranny that you can see, there should only be about 3. We cut them at the tranny because the connectors run into the car almost so we get the most wiring right at the tranny.
9) Ok getting there, remove the dust plate from the underside of the bell housing of the transmission. There’s 3 pieces to it and about 6 bolts.
10) Next take your extreme patients in weaving you hands into cracks and crevices you wouldn’t believe to the struggle of getting your bell housing bolts off. I had to use a ratchet that had a swivel head on it for most of them. But the most aggravating one was the one on the exhaust side (driver side) on the top half, I had to unscrew the recirculation pipe and move it a little bit out of the way. This gave me the leverage to get an air ratchet in there and go to work (that is the only time I used and air tool). Your going to have to take out your starter so be sure to remove the wiring from it before you trying yanking the thing out.
11) Next remove the bolt that bolt the tranny to the cross member, after that take a jack and jack the back of the tranny up until it just moves off the cross member. Then remove the cross member.
12) Remember the dust plate you took off earlier?? Well your going to need to unbolt your torque converter off of the flywheel in order to let the tranny drop off of the engine. The bolts are visible from the dust plate area, there’s about 4 bolts but its also not to fun to turn the flywheel when your engine is just starting a compression stroke : /
13) You should have everything off of the tranny by now but do yourself a favor and check make sure that all wiring and **** is off the tranny.
14) After your torque converter is unbolted lower the jack and the tranny should pop right off of the car without aggravation.
15) Get your tranny out of the way and the torque converter out of your sight, and beware that the tranny weights about 100-150lb’s more than your 5spd – there weight reduction in its finest.
16) Ok now you have your flywheel on by 6 bolts, at first I tried to take then off with a ratchet but it just turned the flywheel with it, so then I tried a air ratchet and that wasn’t powerful enough, in fact it just rammed my hand into the exhaust down pipe which really hurt. So I used an air impact “wrench” that took all the bolts out in less than a minute with NO kick at all.
17) Now you will notice a bushing sticking about a quarter inch out of the crankshaft, this is the A/T adapter bearing, yes it must also be removed, it’s in the way of your pilot bushing. So what “I” did is take a air chisel and chiseled on 1 side for a few seconds then put the flywheel and 2 bolts in, then turned the flywheel, then took the flywheel off, then chiseled on it from the other side, repeat steps until it pops off, it only took maybe 5 min’s tops.
18 ) Ok now we need to prep your pilot bushing. So take some 600-800 level sand paper, and get the surface rust out of the inside bore of the crankshaft. This will help the pilot bushing go in. once you’ve got most of the rust out. Grab yourself a 12mm deep well socket. This is what your going to use the drive the pilot bushing in. Now take something with some weight and pound it in until it really can’t much farther. I found that at a point I hit it too hard and the alignment tool wouldn’t go in, which is bad. So I took a file and filed out the inner edge until it went it pretty easy. ß You shouldn't’t have to do that, unless you hit it really hard so refrain from that.
19) Ok now, take your new flywheel, work it on the crankshaft, there will be a tiny whole on the flywheel and a much larger hole in the crank, line those up when putting the flywheel on. I don’t believe its necessary but I did it for kicks. Put all six new flywheel bolts in until there almost completely screwed in by hand, but noticeably not all the way in. This will help you to know which you’ve put in and which you’ve not. Now the torque specs are 100ftlbs for each bolt, but I didn’t have a torque wrench. So I just zapped them for a few seconds with the air impact wrench. MAKE SURE TO TORQUE THEM IN CRISS CROSS PATTERN. It is very important to torque them in criss cross pattern, you don’t need your flywheel warping on you, especially at 6k rpm’s.
20) Ok now make sure you have the bolts that bolt the clutch plate on, mine came with my flywheel because the flywheel I bought still had the old stock clutch on it. So this is very simple, take your clutch disc and put it in the alignment tool, then slide that into the crankshaft. The disc should be labeled as to which end of the disc faces the transmission. Mine said “T/M SIDE”. So then your going to want to take the pressure plate (the extremely heavier of the two if you don’t understand the terms) and slide it on with the alignment tool in the middle of the plate. Bolt this thing on; there is 6 bolts total. No need to torque these but crank then down nicely onto the flywheel, don’t be alarmed, yes it looks like the disc is crushing the pressure plate??? Yes it is in fact crank it down anyway. Its suppose to. Now you’re almost ready for the tranny.
21) Next your going to want to prep your wiring, so this is what you do, remember those wires we cut off in the beginning before we dropped the tranny, follow those up to the passenger side fuse box. There will be 3 large connectors where the wires end. Unclip all of them from the harness, then throw the useless cut wires aside, you will no longer need then. Next there will be your park/neutral switch. This is a 2 wire connector that almost goes under that very same fuse box. So this is what we do, cut the wiring off the switch leaving yourself a good 4 inches of wire on the fuse box end. Cross those two wires and permanently connect them. This is your park neutral switch, your car now always believes its in neutral J. Toss the extra wiring that went to the tranny its useless.
22) Ok tranny prep time, take out the shifter out of the tranny if you haven’t already. There are 4-5 different sensors on your tranny, you only need 2 of them. Your reverse lights, and your speed sensor. So make sure you have these ready to go. The middle of the 3 connectors I believe, is the inhibitor switch. Only gray one??? You may wanna double check this part. But there will be a green/yellow striped wire, and a green/blue striped wire. Run both of these to your reverse light sensor. Which is the first sensor on the bellhousing side. The speed sensor is the first sensor on the drive shaft end, it should directly connect to the old speed sensor wire, no splice ****. All wiring done there.
23) Ok Now get that bi*ch up there, this is one of the most difficult moments. You have to twist the tranny so the starter bell housing is facing almost 180 degrees other direction. Get the tranny shaft lined up and work it into the clutch/pilot bushing. Then you can turn the tranny all the way around, facing correctly, bolt 2 or so bolts in. You may want to have a jack holding the other end of the tranny up, or you can go my method and let it sit on your chest. Then bolt all the bolts in. Then get your new crossmember set up, line it up, bolt it in. Then drop the jack. Ok now we put out lovely new driveshaft in. Same steps as taking out, just backwards.
24) Ok we should almost be done, get you new clutch pedal assembly in. Nice that Nissan left the whole for the master in the firwall, just cut out on the template. Then bolt your new master cyl onto the clutch pedal assemble. Clutch lines- get the main line and the rubber line set up. Nissan also nice enough to leave clips on the car for clutch master. The main line normaly goes to the clutch damper but we don’t need that so it will clip in exactly then you will have to bend the line carefully by hand to face the tranny a little better. Your rubber line should screw right into the metal line, and that directly into your slave cylender which you should have installed by now also.
25) Fill her up with fluid (2.4quarts of 75w90 gear oil, use sythetic), DON’T FORGET TO PUT YOUR DAM DRAIN PLUG BACK IN. I fabbed up a rubber boot to go around the shifter to keep smell out, made it outta the old auto one. Then put your shifter in and get yourself a flashy finisher boot.
26) Ok bleed you clutch lines adjusting you pedal to where you want the feel. Your done J
27) If I left anything out guys please inform me.

Complete cost was about 500$
Post Reply

Return to “nissan. infiniti.”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests