Idle Problems

[spdyslvrEX]

p.s. do you have any parts i could use for my civic you would be willing to let go? I really need an AFR gauge. Or just anything else you think I may need. We can talk price elsewhere of course.

[tenchu]

I'm 99.999% sure it wouldn't be the fuel PUMP. If anything, it would be the filter (shouldn't be more than $20).

I keep going back to vacuum though, I hate to suggest a part, have you spend money on it, and then not need it. Have you checked all the vacuum lines?

That code 99% of the time is either A) the IACV or B) a vacuum leak. If you cover the IACV hole, and the idle drops, your IACV is probably bad. If it does nothing, its most likely a vacuum leak.

Sorry man, I got outta the Honda game back in 08, i'm on that boxer engine shit now


Edit: IMHO, don't waste your money on a a/f gauge unless you're going to get a wideband. And if the car has been tuned by someone reputable, and you're not going to make any changes, you really don't NEED that either. But regardless, an A/F gauge (like an autometer or something)is pretty much a gimmic. A narow band o2 sensor doesn't work well enough to give you an accurate reading.

[spdyslvrEX]

Ok, when I cover the IACV hole the idle drops and the car shuts off. (that was yesterday) today I covered the hole and the idle just drops way low...Is this an IACV problem?

[tenchu]

Definately sounds like it.

[spdyslvrEX]

Word...thanks again man....I will try to replace this thing when I get some money....I wonder if cleaning it again would work....couldn't hurt eh'

[tenchu]

You could try, i've tried in the past with no success, but like you said it doesn't hurt to try.

[spdyslvrEX]

For an update on this issue. I finally took it to my Mechanic. He can't get to it until Monday, (no car for the weekend, booooo) anyway....While I was driving to his shop I found the only way the car would drive is at full throttle....Other than that all the other things that are listed above are what i have done....Josh thanks for the help man I appreciate it....I will come back to this site more often....

[tenchu]

No problem Matt

[kotomile]

I'm 99.999% sure it wouldn't be the fuel PUMP. If anything, it would be the filter (shouldn't be more than $20).

Edit: IMHO, don't waste your money on a a/f gauge unless you're going to get a wideband. And if the car has been tuned by someone reputable, and you're not going to make any changes, you really don't NEED that either. But regardless, an A/F gauge (like an autometer or something)is pretty much a gimmic. A narow band o2 sensor doesn't work well enough to give you an accurate reading.

Good to know that great minds think alike, Josh. lol. I've been thinking the same thing about the pump (I yapped at Matt for a bit yesterday, probably bored him to tears about the role of the pump in the system) and about the WBO2. IMHO every turbo car (especially aftermarket turbo) needs a WB. Firstly, so that you can keep tabs on the AFRs (is the F/IC equipped with an elevation-compensating MAP sensor? If not, that's just one way AFRs can change after the initial dyno tune.) And secondly, so that its input can be fed to the EMS (if it can accept it) and it can make corrections on the fly like EGO correction and such. But like you said, this is only true of a wideband O2 sensor.

[tenchu]

I'm 99.999% sure it wouldn't be the fuel PUMP. If anything, it would be the filter (shouldn't be more than $20).

Edit: IMHO, don't waste your money on a a/f gauge unless you're going to get a wideband. And if the car has been tuned by someone reputable, and you're not going to make any changes, you really don't NEED that either. But regardless, an A/F gauge (like an autometer or something)is pretty much a gimmic. A narow band o2 sensor doesn't work well enough to give you an accurate reading.

Good to know that great minds think alike, Josh. lol. I've been thinking the same thing about the pump (I yapped at Matt for a bit yesterday, probably bored him to tears about the role of the pump in the system) and about the WBO2. IMHO every turbo car (especially aftermarket turbo) needs a WB. Firstly, so that you can keep tabs on the AFRs (is the F/IC equipped with an elevation-compensating MAP sensor? If not, that's just one way AFRs can change after the initial dyno tune.) And secondly, so that its input can be fed to the EMS (if it can accept it) and it can make corrections on the fly like EGO correction and such. But like you said, this is only true of a wideband O2 sensor.

First off.. EGO??

Second, I didn't even know they had elevation compensation map sensors, thats fucking tits.

Back to regularly scheduled programming. What I really meant, deterring him from a a/f gauge, or even a wbo2, was that a) if you don't know what you're looking at, then really all you have is a fancy gauge with different color lights flashing at you and some numbers that mean nothing. B) if you can't make adjustments yourself, I don't really see the point either, because any reputable tuner is going to have their own wbo2 for tuning.

I personally have always ran a wbo2 in all of my aftermarket turbo cars (not in my factory turbo cars, but then, the first one i never did anything extensive enough to require one, and the 2nd car was a bone stock full size sedan luxury Volvo that I had no intentions on modifying.

Come to think of it though, there IS a filter on the fuel pump itself, and if you already have a new one laying around, it wouldn't hurt to replace it, since it wont cost you anything. If you can figure out how to change your spark plugs you can change your fuel filter.

I'm still dead set on IACV or Vacuum issues. But I guess we'll find out soon enough. Matt, when you get word from your mechanic, let us know. Would like to see how accurate (or far off) my guesses were.