TURBevO8

[DA 9_Chinga]

cant wait for pics car is fuckin brutal

[TURBevO8]

I may have a small change of plans. I was back and forth on this for months now and the mfg recommends for stock bottom end and pump gas going with the smaller version turbo flowing 51lb/min instead of 58 and having better spool and transient response. I was back and forth on this as I said but after talking to some guys with both turbos it seems that it may make more sense on my stock clutch to do the smaller one and skip the head studs and other head related parts for a first round as I will be limited by my clutch anyway. I know, duh right? I was hoping it would hold a while. And I would push it if I wasnt leaning toward new cams and valetrain now. So I am thinking smaller turbo to start, followed by clutch/flywheel, head parts, 2nd tune, then someday when I build the bottom end and do a ported head upgrade to the 58lb/min compressor for only $600. I am so up in the air! Big turbo now or smaller for more midrange and still great power? Basically guys at 26-27psi picked up 30whp with the bigger one, but lost some torque and the transient response suffers...again, duh...it is a bigger turbo. $ is the deciding issue here I think. Cannot afford cams and clutch all at once and have to break the new clutch in anyway. Smaller turbo limited should be fine with stock studs and clutch long enough to save up for the cams, etc. Wish I had more money....lol

Thoughts???

[munster]

Personally...I would just do the clutch first and push the current turbo. From experience I would stay away from a lightened flywheel. Tends to fall out of boost quickly. I took an ACT flywheel out of my car for that reason.

I have a tendency to overbuild out of the gate, though. I hate redoing things. I want to do it once.

[Jams_ek]

^I too have had problems with light weight flywheels... so I agree with munster fully.. do the clutch.

[munster]

I wouldn't say that I had problems with mine. NA it was a blast because I wasn't dealing with power that would blow the tires off. With a turbo it would rev so quick it would fry them off then revs fell so quick that I would be out of boost. Just wasn't fun with the turbo.

[TURBevO8]

I have no intention of going with a lightened flywheel or a twin disc. I am going with the Exedy single HD stage 2. I cannot do the clutch now as I simply cannot afford it and don't want to do the install myself on that one. Gotta drop the front end and lower the motor out. No thanks. Stock turbo is maxed on pump gas without meth or alcy so time to go bigger. Here is the plan....

phase 1 (March 2011)
CBRD BBK Full (51lb/min turbo) on its way!
Buschur Racing Race FMIC (Garret 3.8" core) ships today! (to replace my Buschur Deluxe)
Perrin intake tube (mated to my APS pre-MAF CAI)
FIC injectors
Peirburg EBCS (to replace my Hallman MBC)
Mil.Spec TB seals
CBRD tune

phase 2 (mid summer 2011)
60k mile service (timing belt, water pump, all that stuff)
new head gasket
ARP head studs
Kelford 272 cams (to replace my HKS 272s)
GSC Beehive springs and retainers
Mil.Spec 65mm TB
MAP ported IM
Exedy single HD stage 2 and machined factory flywheel
more boost!
CBRD tune

I am hoping for 390s in phase 1 and 420s in phase 2 on CBRDs dreamkiller Mustangdyne. Multiply by 1.13 for Dynojet numbers. That would be 475whp DJ in phase 2 with stock spool and BETTER transient response!!! Cannot wait! Parts are on order or in shipment and the build starts later this month. Deconstruction is now complete minus pulling the rad which should be cake.

[TURBevO8]

Should I do it when I pull the head? Ricer or a better match?

Now:


What I am thinking:

[.saint]

looks nice

[Jams_ek]

i like it man!

[munster]

Ehhh. Not feeling the green.