I decided to go with the k24a4 longblock from an 04 Honda accord because of the cheap price. The type S head can be installed on this block with aftermarket or tsx pistons because of ptv clearance issues. The k24a1 from the CRV can be used stock block with a type S head swap no problem.
If you chose a longblock instead of a full swap, you will need to source a k-series tranny. I went with the k20a2 02-04 rsx-s 6 speed. Others like k20aR, k20a3 rsx base/ep3, k20z1 can be used. As of right now there is no mount kit for the use of tsx/accord/06 civic si tranny's unless custom made.
If replacing clutch/flywheel (recommended). Now is the perfect time before you install the tranny to the longblock. I'm using an Act Prolite flywheel with and Exedy Stage 1 clutch
Make sure you use manual flywheel bolts because they are longer than the auto ones that may come with your engine. Also use loc-tite and torque to spec
Now it is time to mate transmission to engine block. Make sure you have your dowel pins in there and if you lube the center of the flywheel and mainshaft on the transmission it will make it a little easier to assemble. I didnt have the oem bolts so i just used random 17mm tranny bolts from other b/d series engines. Worked perfect
Next install the starter located beneath the intake manifold on the front of the engine. Mine was kind of a bitch because of the long runners, but its probably not bad at all with k20 style manifolds.
Now you want to install your idler pulley/bracket/belt from the ep3 in place of the oem power steering pump. I bought this part new from honda for about 85.00 shipped and the for the serpentine belt i just messured and bought a random one from napa that fit. BTW The idler pulley is used to remove power steering. If keeping p/s you must make custom p/s lines.
If swapping a k24a4 or k24a2 you must use the k24a1 crv engine mount bracket located on the timing chain side that bolts to the block. No modification just bolts on like stock, All other k20's just used the stock mount bracket.
Hopefully you have your d/b/h series engine removed already,Now you need to remove passenger engine mount bracket by drilling out the spot welds. I also needed a little aid of a crow bar and BFH to remove that prick.
Bolt on new hasport mount bracket using oem threaded holes and 3 10mm bolts to hold it in place. Then you will need to drill the top two holes to install the 2 long bolts/nuts that go down through the frame to secure the mount bracket. Bit size can be found in your hasport instructions. Hybrid Racing or other mounts will be different that this one so go by provided instructions.
Next you can install all your engine mounts to the chassis with provided hardware but not fully tightening the bolts. This makes it easier to bolt them to the engine because you'll have a little play in the mounts to line them up.
Remove your radiator mounts by drilling out spot welds. You must also remove the a/c condensor mounts by doing the same. Now the radiator needs to be positioned on the drivers side instead of the passenger side because of coolant hose locations on the k-series. Once positioned correctly mark where the radiator mounts need to be and weld them in place.
Also you can remove your stock clutch line all the way to my clutch master cylinder. If you dont ever plan to use it again you can just cut it out so its not a PITA.
Next you can install the engine harness if its not connected already. I had to use the k20a2 type s engine/charging harness because the accord harness was just different and wouldnt work. I had to change a few plugs for things like knock sensor/crank reference sensor/evap purge solenoid. If your using a type s 6 speed transmission you must use the type s engine harness because of the reverse lock out solenoid. You can use the ep3 harness if you have a 5 speed tranny.
Now you can go ahead and drop the engine in using whatever method you like doing. I have always used a cherry picker and i actually though it was easier dropping in than a b-series.
For engine management a stock ecu Cannot be used because of the immobilizer. The only way to run the engine is either Hondata Kpro, Aem Ems, or a jdm Prc k20a type R ecu but cannot be tuned with this one.
I'm using the Aem Ems because i was to impatient to wait for kpro.
I would say Kpro is more user friendly compared to Aem, Both great systems. I was very impressed with Aem and its endless capabilities but i'm sure lots of people will argue between the two.
Once your engine is bolted in you can run the engine harness loom through the fire wall down toward the stock ecu location. I just put mine through a hole under the battery, it can be done cleaner by going through the factory grommet under the fuse box.
Plug in your two engine harness 2 plugs to the kpro or aem ecu.
I used the Hybrid-Racing pnp dash harness so i'm not sure if other are the same. The 3rd ecu "E-Plug" is on the hybrid harness, plug that in and route the hybrid harness under the dash as explained in the instructions.
If using type s 6 speed your going to need the 6 speed shifter box and cables. I used the Karcepts shifter mounting kit, this actually mounts the box from below the car so the factory interior plastic fits over it for that "oem look". The box can also be straight bolted to the floor if you dont care what it looks like and how high the shifter is.
With the karcepts kit, the cables ran underneath the car up to the tranny. Clips hold them to the holder bracket and cotter pins connect the cable ends the the tranny shifters and hold them in place. If you didnt get the clips you can order them from honda/acura.
For the clutch line i lucked out and got the oem slave cylinder/hard and soft line and it reached up to the clutch master cylinder..looks completely factory. But usually these dont come with swaps, so you can make your own using steel braided line or just brake hardline. Or purchase one made for the swap from Suja1 Motoring.
For coolant heater hoses i just used random hose/hose clamps from autozone and cut to fit. Ran just like it would on a stock engine, kinda have to twist it so they dont kink.
The k-series uses a dead end style fuel system which is different than on our cars so you must use an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Now alot of people buy steel braided fuel line kits with an aftermarket fuel rail. But i cheaped out and made my own rubber hoses and kept the stock fuel rail.
There is alot of choices for a header, prices ranging from 350 to 1200. I picked up a hasport header (discontinued) for 375 bucks. Not the best but it will get the job done. The more you pay the better performance you will see.
For a throttle cable I just used my stock civic cable, fit perfect!
Then you will need a upper radiator hose from an ep3..might need to trim a bit to fit just right. The lower hose is from a b-series and you pretty much just cut a section out of it to make it fit right.
A Hasport coolant adapter for coolant temp sensor and fan switch is a must if you want your fan and coolant gauge to work. Wiring for this comes from the Hybrid dash harness.
Next hook up your charging harness to the engine harness plugs. This also has connections for your starter and maybe a few other sensors beneath the intake manifold. The charge harness needs to be extended to reach the battery. The connections for the fues box will also need modified to fit.
Dont forget your grounds. At least 3, one on tranny too
Now If your Intermediate shaft is already on, you can install your axles (no pic sorry)
The setup i used is the type s intermediate shaft, with rsx base automatic axles with NO modification done. These fit perfect with the hasport egk1 engine mounts. There are plenty of options for axles like aftermarkets or type s axles with b-series outer cv's installed ect.
NOW SOMEONE STICKY THIS!!!!!!
