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Best Setup for EP?

wheels. tires. brakes. stiff stuff.
esmith13
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Post by esmith13 » December 09, 2003

I hafta agree with Suk on this one...

The Mugen Suspension agressively loweres the car AND retains the proper amount of travel by completely replacing the strut assembly. Another think it does that's not mentioned in that post that ljasonl put up is that on the EP3 at least, when you lower the car the arms on the steering rack are no longer parallel to the ground as they should be. This condition worsens bump-steer which can be a bad thing. Imagine taking a tight turn at 40mph and catchin a pothole.... No imagine your steering wheel jerks to the left or right in the middle of that turn because of that pothole... It's not fun... I suffer from it right now :(

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Post by Suk02Si » December 09, 2003

esmith13 wrote:I hafta agree with Suk on this one...

The Mugen Suspension agressively loweres the car AND retains the proper amount of travel by completely replacing the strut assembly. Another think it does that's not mentioned in that post that ljasonl put up is that on the EP3 at least, when you lower the car the arms on the steering rack are no longer parallel to the ground as they should be. This condition worsens bump-steer which can be a bad thing. Imagine taking a tight turn at 40mph and catchin a pothole.... No imagine your steering wheel jerks to the left or right in the middle of that turn because of that pothole... It's not fun... I suffer from it right now :(

Eric

Yeah the bump steer issues with the EP3 and DC5 are horrible. THe Mugen suspension relocates the tie rod attachment point about 1" lower which fixes the problem.

There's a race car in Hong Kong that has adapters that allow you to mount the tie rod upside down which helps keep it parallel. Nobody knows where to get the part though.
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esmith13
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Post by esmith13 » December 09, 2003

Do you really think that's safe for a street car?? i would think that would put weight stress on the tie rod ends or the steering rack/rods... Since the arms on the struts would be pushing down on the tie rod ends in that situation...

Maybe that's the reason you WON'T see them available for purchase....

Eric

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Post by Suk02Si » December 09, 2003

it wouldn't be pushing down on them. When the car is at rest, the arms would be level.

The stock mounting postion is fine if your at stock ride height. Once you lower the car, the arms angle in a V shape. With the adapter, it lets you mount them upside down so they can be level again.

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Post by Spoon AP1 » December 09, 2003

Unless you live where they salt roads in the winter (and you drive this car through it), you really can't go wrong with Tein... buddyclubs, mugens, spoons, etc. are all great, your budget will be the key. Thought about the spoon fixed type? they ride fairly nice... :) You can always go tanabe sustec if your low on cash...
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Post by .saint » December 09, 2003

buddyclubs get my vote ill be running a set on the EK sometime when i come across the 1500
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esmith13
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Post by esmith13 » December 09, 2003

Suk02Si wrote:it wouldn't be pushing down on them. When the car is at rest, the arms would be level.

The stock mounting postion is fine if your at stock ride height. Once you lower the car, the arms angle in a V shape. With the adapter, it lets you mount them upside down so they can be level again.
I understand the concept. The problem is, the arms on the strut tip downward as the car gets lowered. Imaging the tie rod ends being UNDER the arms (flipped). Yes, the steering bars are now level. BUT... When you hit a speed bump or other raised road hazard, the wheel bounces up into the wheel well (using the remaining suspension travel) which is the SAME effect as lowering the car farther. The arms on the strut quickly tip down further and bounce back up. For that split second the tie rod ends would be under LOTS of stress and the steering rods would temporarly V again until you get past the bump.

Eric

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Post by Nikku » December 24, 2003

as for the comment about salty roads, all tein's are now being coated w/ an anti rust coating to resist rust MUCH better then before, i recommend TEIN, if not tein ANY setup that is matched (IE properly valved shocks for the springs you are running), tokico makes matched kits, H&R does as well, as for the avalibility w/ these kits for the EP that is hard to say due to the newness of the EP
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Post by Rey » January 31, 2004

Damn, first time here and I already see a bunch of ephatch.com members.

As fer your question, I want to eventually go tein basic, or hayame full coilovers. For just a little bit more you get Mugen coilovers, but you only get 1.5 inch drop.

Does H&R make good stuff???

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Post by Spoon AP1 » January 31, 2004

Rey wrote: Does H&R make good stuff???
springs yes, coilovers no.

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