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rear disc conversion
Moderator: Nikku
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=683522
you basically need the ITR knuckles/calipers/rotors, and the type-r trailing arms, etc and it should change right over, i am looking for a thread on H-T right now
you basically need the ITR knuckles/calipers/rotors, and the type-r trailing arms, etc and it should change right over, i am looking for a thread on H-T right now
Just call me Dr. Vice.
........i would recommend IM'ming that guy on H-T though because i have never done this on an ED and i would not want to blow fruit loops up your ass or anything like thatthe crx ebrake cables for a hatch are too short.
the integra ones are the best to use and simply route them to the opposite side of the handle than the trailing arm for that cable. you ultimately will end up crossing the cables. (run the driver side cable to the passenger side tab on the ebrake handle and vice versa)
if you choose to go the route of using the integra master cylinder and booster assembly ot of a 90-93 you will want to install this with the motor out of the car, the intake manifold off, or with a lot of praying that you hit the one angle that it will slide in there with all of the other parts in the car. i speeak from experience on that one. it was not pleasant trying to squeeze the mc/booster assy. between the shock tower and the b16 manifold.
the integra ones are the best to use and simply route them to the opposite side of the handle than the trailing arm for that cable. you ultimately will end up crossing the cables. (run the driver side cable to the passenger side tab on the ebrake handle and vice versa)
if you choose to go the route of using the integra master cylinder and booster assembly ot of a 90-93 you will want to install this with the motor out of the car, the intake manifold off, or with a lot of praying that you hit the one angle that it will slide in there with all of the other parts in the car. i speeak from experience on that one. it was not pleasant trying to squeeze the mc/booster assy. between the shock tower and the b16 manifold.
i miss my hondas.
kyle wrote: if you choose to go the route of using the integra master cylinder and booster assembly ot of a 90-93 you will want to install this with the motor out of the car, the intake manifold off, or with a lot of praying that you hit the one angle that it will slide in there with all of the other parts in the car. i speeak from experience on that one. it was not pleasant trying to squeeze the mc/booster assy. between the shock tower and the b16 manifold.
i disagree with you here
kyle wrote:you disagree? why?
i don't remember you holding my hand while i wrestled that assembly into place barely clearing the manifold and sliding along the edge of the shock tower.
because it can be done with some finesse, and if you still have problems all you would need to remove is the intake manifold, not the whole engine, but it can be done easily without removing either, go here
http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/tegmp.html
please re-read the exact part of my post that you disagreed with. i stated that it would be easier with the engine out of the car (i.e. do it at the same time as you swap engines), take the manifold off (as you suggested in your argument concerning disagreement but i had already stated), or slide it down in and hope for the best (again, as you suggested in your argument response but had already been stated previously by myself).kyle wrote: if you choose to go the route of using the integra master cylinder and booster assembly ot of a 90-93 you will want to install this with the motor out of the car, the intake manifold off, or with a lot of praying that you hit the one angle that it will slide in there with all of the other parts in the car. i speeak from experience on that one. it was not pleasant trying to squeeze the mc/booster assy. between the shock tower and the b16 manifold.
it is not a true finesse move like you would want people to think it is. it is a pain to get that larger booster with the larger mc attached to it in there properly. i got frustrated with mine a few times and had to take a break so i wouldn't kick the crap out of my car.
i did this to my car...i know first hand. if you have any suggestions on how to get it in there easier besides the ones you just made and the ones i had already made in the exact post that you disagreed with please post them so i know what to try differently the next time i do one.
my suggestion is do not do it with the M/C attached to it, that was your problem, the booster is simple" wrote:kyle wrote:
it is a pain to get that larger booster with the larger mc attached to it in there properly. i got frustrated with mine a few times and had to take a break so i wouldn't kick the crap out of my car.
i did this to my car...i know first hand. if you have any suggestions on how to get it in there easier besides the ones you just made and the ones i had already made in the exact post that you disagreed with please post them so i know what to try differently the next time i do one.