
I'm excited to announce that thejdm is now updated to the latest phpbb 3.2 software. You may notice the site is now mobile friendly but with the upgrade comes some hiccups. theGarage, theGallery, theArcade are no longer supported. In due time the developers should be working to release the modifications to work on the new software. #LetsMakeForumsGreatAgain
H to B ???
the H23 stil isnt a bad engine. Is a good DD and with a set of cams and light head work would be a fun engine. but i think its gonna cost to much to do NA anything over 200wpa with it and would be alot less reliable in the long run then just getting a jdm H22.
My goal is for a mid 13 second NA car. I think the jdm h22 with a good suspesion setup and tuning should be able to do this along with my other mods (exhaust/intake/etc.)
My goal is for a mid 13 second NA car. I think the jdm h22 with a good suspesion setup and tuning should be able to do this along with my other mods (exhaust/intake/etc.)
A mid 13 h22a is going to require some headwork and cams (stage 2 or 3's, just based on the specs. Any "stage 1" camshafts won't be enough, and I'd do the valve job and porting and polishing to boot.) I'd also check into an Accord Euro R tb, port matching it to your IM and other little misc. mods you can do. I've seen several make 200whp with a set of BC's or Jun's (stage 2's) with several other mods without a problem. Mind you, like you said is much more feasible with the h22 than the h23. I'm not looking to make that much in mine, just want a little more umph. We'll have to see.
Good luck with your build and let me know how the results come out.
-Michael
Good luck with your build and let me know how the results come out.
-Michael
the JDM H22 has a pretty good head setup with the more aggressive cams then the USDM H22. getting stage 1 would be pointless and stage 2 would probally barely make a dif. Will likely have a s200 or s300 and vtec controller but shouldnt need much head work on the jdm engine to get high 13. main focus will be suspension setup and reducing weight and tuning. either way will see when i get around to it next fall/winter. if i find a H22 head for a good price this summer though i might end up doing the hybrid setup so we'll see, stil alot of time from now til then 
- boostjunkie95
- Posts: 2728
- Joined: December 28, 2005
- Location: Revloc, PA
- Contact:
Ever since Hondata has started making a bullshit pointless lawsuit towards Chris at Xenocron, I have no interest in using Hondata products on my own car. Crome/Uberdata/Ostrich/Neptune anything besides some little whiney ass company. I lost alot of respect for Hondata. Enough digressing.
I think I might look into a headswap and go for h23vtec. Dunno, I'll just have to find one at a good price.
I think I might look into a headswap and go for h23vtec. Dunno, I'll just have to find one at a good price.
oh well, like i said, we'll see when i get around to the build. Boostjunkie, i was gonna get the vtec controller just for easier incar adjustments. dont really need it but i just think it would be easier then bringing the laptop and having to hookup to adjust the s200/s300 but we'll see.
pretty much decided on going jdm h22 but if i can come across a head for a good price i might do the hybrid builld. we'll see what happens this summer...
pretty much decided on going jdm h22 but if i can come across a head for a good price i might do the hybrid builld. we'll see what happens this summer...
- fabricator
- Posts: 12
- Joined: February 01, 2008
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Bisimoto/Evolution Industries makes the H2B Kit. they explain the whole reasoning behind it.....they have been doing this for a while now...Bisi used to run D-series Trannies on B-series engines.....
and It is only for the H swap in a civic/teg application. or Hard LInkage shifted hondas....
It's not really cracking, think of it like a Vein structure. Due to the casting process....it only resides in the surface of the metal i mean maybe .001" into the surface. nothing to worry about. it normally occurs when the metal is contaminated by oil, and what not..
and It is only for the H swap in a civic/teg application. or Hard LInkage shifted hondas....
It's not really cracking, think of it like a Vein structure. Due to the casting process....it only resides in the surface of the metal i mean maybe .001" into the surface. nothing to worry about. it normally occurs when the metal is contaminated by oil, and what not..
