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H22a swap in a EG civic/DC2.

engine. drivetrain. engine management & trouble codes talk.
Turbogixxer
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H22a swap in a EG civic/DC2.

Post by Turbogixxer » August 08, 2003

OK, I am trying to cover ALL you need to do this swap and all the myths and shit that people have been saying about this swap.

First, Try to find a car that has not been in a front end crash. The new motor mounts are made for a straight frame, so if you have frame damage, the mounts will not line up right.

Motor Mounts: Now, your stock or B-series mounts will not work. You have two choices: 1) Hasport or 2) HCP. The difference in the mounts are little. Hasports cost the is higher than the HCP. The HASport motor mounts were designed for better axles angles, so you have less broken axles. Now, HCP designed there kit more towards the stock prelude mounting position. I mostly use HCP because of the price and seen no real benefits for the HASport besides (in the HCP) if you do not grind enough off the transmission mount, it will grind 5th and reverse. Now, I know you are saying "what about other mounts that I have seen like Place racing, totem, etc?". With place racing, I have seen nothing but problems with axles binding and just poor R&D. With totem, The link will show you all: http://www.jdmshit.com/Totem/ . Totem copied the HCP design and did a shitty job at it. With ALL mounts you will have to use a 92-96 H-series prelude rear transmission bracket.

Axles: You have many choices here. You can use a 90-93 accord intermediate shaft with 90-93 integra axles, or use the prelude intermediate shaft with a 90-93 integra passenger side axle and a hybrid axle with a 'lude inner CV joint and the 90-93 integra shaft and outer CV joint for driver's side axle. The only difference in those axles set-up is the intermediate shaft you use. I have seen them hold to nice horsepower, so you do not have to go the more money route. Another way to go is, Use the prelude intermediate shaft and order up a pair of DSS axles for the swap.

Wiring: I know that people think that this is the hardest part of the swap, but it is not (thanks to that damn shift linkage pin :P ). Now, the easiest harness to use is your stock harness. Most of the plugs will match up. If the is the same OBD, the colors of the wires will match up too. Now, there we go:
1. You will have to change the injector clips to the h22a style, that is very easy, just cut and splice. Now, your stock injectors are saturated. The H22a injectors are Peak and hold. you will have to wire in a resistor box. It is easy. there is a diagram: Image http://www.hondata.com/techinjectorwiring.html

2. You will have to extend the Alternator wiring. Now, if it is the SAME OBD then you should have no problem. All the colors are the same.

3. You will have to length the wire going to the starter solenoid.

4. You will have to use the H22a reverse light plug. No biggy, just cut and splice.

5. Depending on what model and year you have, it will determine how much wiring you will have to do. there is a diagram to help you: Image also you may have to rewire the 02 sensor (on VX and CX only) there are the pinouts:
WHT wire goes to D14 (O2 Sensor Input) - needs to be a shielded wire with ground (it has to be shielded wire, or it will not work right)
BLK wire goes to A6 which is Heater Control
GRN wire goes to D22 which is Sensor Ground
BLK wire goes to B1 or A25 which is Sensor voltage

6. As for the EGR, JDM motors you do not have to wire it up, BUT USDM you do. The JDM motors will get a code for it off and on, but just reset the computer, and it will go away.

7. Sensor ID. There is a pic that will make the job easier: Image #1 is ECT (engine coolant temperature switch)

#2 is the coolant sending unit (this is what sends your cluster how hot your water is)

#3 is the knock sensor.

#4 is the oil sensor.

NOW, label all the sensors when you take them off. It will make it easier when you put the new motor in.


THINGS TO REPLACE.

When you have the motor/transmission out, you should replace: the clutch, timing belt and balance shaft belt, water pump, spark plugs. Those are just the basics, you can replace more.

COOLING SYSTEM

You will need a 92 integra LS upper Radiator hose and a 1994 Del Sol VTEC lower radiator hose. You can get them almost anywhere. You will have to get a slim fan OR mod. your stock fan to work. I think that the slim fan is the best. They are like $30 at pep boys. Now, as far as the Radiator questions, you can run your stock single core Radiator with no problems, but I would upgrade to a Del Sol VTEC dual core Radiator.

CUTTING AND HACK TO THE CHASSIS

you will need to cut a 2x3 hole for the shift cables. Here is a pic: Image Image

you will also have to cut the transmission mount. With the HASport, you will have to cut it off totally. With the HCP, you will only have to cut about 1" x 1" off it.

I think that is it, if you have any questions, just ask!

Special thanks to Brandon (poison) and Dave Newman (Newman)

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.saint
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Post by .saint » August 08, 2003

awesome info. much props. :up: howto
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munster
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Post by munster » August 08, 2003

Very indepth how-to. *golf clap*
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MARCASS
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Post by MARCASS » August 08, 2003

im with munster ek ****golf clap****
If theres grass on the field play ball, if theres no grass on the field go around back and play in the mud.

sal_blkej2
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Post by sal_blkej2 » August 09, 2003

very good info...much props to you sir

MagillaGorilla
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Post by MagillaGorilla » August 09, 2003

Yes, He is a very knowledgable person. :P


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It is better to be violent, if there is violence in our hearts, than to put on the cloak of nonviolence to cover impotence.
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Turbogixxer
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Post by Turbogixxer » August 09, 2003

What you guys want me to do next? What swap? what howto? what tech of? I was thinking Nitrous oxide?

MagillaGorilla
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Post by MagillaGorilla » August 09, 2003

LSVtec I wanna know the do's and donts. BTW Kenny This is PP signing off. :beer: For your enthusiasm. My vote is for LSVtec.

alexsracing
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Post by alexsracing » August 17, 2003

good job 8)
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sleepinonacreeper
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Post by sleepinonacreeper » September 04, 2003

very good write up. i'll add some... obd 1 h22 have 350 ish injectors, obd 2 has 280 injectors that do not need resistor box but if used w/obd 1 program they lean way out. need new alt belt bc no power steering. with some applications you need to move or trim fuel filter bracket. h22 fuel line attaches to the wrong side of the fuel rail... either extend line or use an accord fuel rail (cant remember what year tho). some have external coil on distributor...needs rewired or an accord one w/coil in it (cant remember what year either). exhaust doesnt bolt up.

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