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anyone actually dyno'd AEMpullies?

general car and site related talk and chat.
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Nikku
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Post by Nikku » September 15, 2005

Dont Blink wrote:
temp wrote:
tommybanzai wrote: clarification from someone who has some knowledge to know (don't know the rest of you)
those crank pulleys are a shit load lighter than the factory one...i know that... :wink:
good for you, and fyi mr. know-it-all :P i have never ONCE seen someone submit actual proof that a non stock crank pulley caused engine failure on a honda. honda motors are internally balanced, however engine harmonics does come into play at high RPM. i have seen people constantly blame the "new crank pulley" they installed in relation to their engine failure, but the prior condition of the motor is never given, not only that but a teardown of the motor and inspection of the main bearings is NEVER done (From what i have seen) thus just leading to more of the myth that the crank pullies cause problems. i for one do not believe that they do, until i see someone with an ocilliscope testing pullies, running pullies on motors, disassembling and inspecting motors that claim that the pulley caused the problem, i will continue believing this fact
the dont blow motors they shatter oil pumps,this is with the same unorthodox pully i ran on my car for 2 years on my all motor set up , never had a problem. then after i went turbo i had an oil pump shatter(new oem type r oil pump). and upon researching about a stronger oil pump i was always asked what pully i had on the car when this happened and all the answers were the same, run stock oil pumps and use a stock pully.ever since i switched i have had zero problems. i seen 2 other turbo cars shatter stock oil pumps and the both had the unorthodox race pully's on. even though the honda motors are internally balanced if you look at the factory crank pully close you'll see theres a thin coat of rubber in there for harmonics. but im just pasing on what i seen first hand but the choice is yours what you would rather do.

i already covered harmonics in my post and honda motors are internally balanced but the 2 have nothing to do with each other, the common saying is that the pulley throws of your "balance", when in reality it doesnt. and a shattered oil pump can lead to catastrophic failure of an engine, as i am sure you well know. the the thing is this, you said you ran it for 2 freekin years with no problems then you put on the turbo and started to have problems, this leads me to believe that your pump was already going bad, you said it was new so am i to assume that you installed the new pump with the turbo or is "new" to you the same as "2 years of beating the shit out of it daily then putting on turbo and doing the same thing". how is it that the CTR N1 crank pulley is availible from the factory on the CTR motor and they have no problems, i would be curious to see if the part number for a CTR oil pump is any different then an ITR one. again, you, just like everyone else who purpotrates this bullshit has proven nothing, you used the pulley for 2 years and i know you were beating the shit out of your motor, and if you say "i never abused/raced/etc it" you would be a liar. as i have said time and time again, someone needs to bring some factual evidence to the table that these pulleys actually do damage
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Dont Blink
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Post by Dont Blink » September 15, 2005

if high reving and harmonics didnt have anything to do with one another then companys like fluid damper or ATI. there are people that do have problems with civic N1 pully's. factory pullys have a rubber insert in them unorthodox pullys dont, fluid damper and ATI use a liquid. but what i wrote was just stateing what happened to me first hand , i never once said i dont drive my car hard and i never will because thats what i built it for. but i forget since your post count is so much higher than mine that you know more than me. so im gonna post up an artivcial of someone who knows more than both of us. this is an articial written from Larry at endyne. so if anyone has a little time to sit back and read its pretty interesting. then everyone can make there own decissions on what they wanna do.

I'll post a more complete rendition of this on the too site shortly, but let me begin by saying that it's good to be back and I'm only here to expressly address some questions that need some "good" answers. I am not here to provide schedules or any information regarding the blower program. The topic is that of aftermarket crank pulleys. Let me begin by saying that we have always called the pulley on the accessory drive end on the Honda cranks Harmonic Balancers. People never seemed to understand what we were talking about and so the word "pulley" was frequently used to avoid confusion. If you look carefully at a Honda "pulley", you'll find that it's not a single piece of metal. Typically, there's a nodular iron or steel hub and another "ring" of iron or steel surrounding it containing the belt grooves. The two parts are joined by a rubber layer, which is highly compressed and sandwiched between them. Why rubber? If you notice, many four cylinder engines over the years have used counter rotating shafts to help make the engine "feel" smoother. Reciprocating internal combustion engines and especially in-line four cylinder versions, all produce shock pulses, which are very apparent to the occupants of the car. Every engine produces a shock pulse each time an individual cylinder fires. So, in the case of the four cylinder variety, there are four large individual pulses for each 720 degrees of crank rotation. Each time there's a pulse, it causes the internal components to do a rapid acceleration-deceleration event. When you consider the mass of all the internal components and visualize all these parts stopping and starting during their reciprocating and rotating motions, the additional stress "spikes" tend to make it all the more reason for one to wonder how any of it can work for any length of time. The harmonic balancer is made with the rubber coupling so that, when the individual "spikes" occur, the inner portion may move with the crank, but the rubber connected outer ring's mass helps prevent the hub and crank from going as far or as fast during the spikes or pulses. Remember that the outer part had considerable mass, so it tends to want to stay in motion at the speed that it's traveling and that's why it can prevent excessive harsh motion by the crank and other internal parts. To put it simply, the harmonic balancer is a shock absorber for the engine and thus prevents the individual pulses from destroying everything in the engine. A quick bit of history; Back in the late '70's, all the Pro Stock engines had been reduced in displacement to allow the cars to weigh less. At that time the vehicle weight was based on engine "type" and total displacement. Typically, the engines were in the 330 cubic inch range and running 10,000 to 11,000 rpm was normal, especially in high gear at the traps. There began to be a lot of engines that were "exploding" their harmonic balancers on the big end. Aside from cutting the steering in half and blowing the front tires, large hunks were also finding their way into the grandstands and there were numerous injuries, many of which ended in death. NHRA immediately mandated that solid "balancers" were to be used from that point on. Keep in mind that a balancer can't be solid and function properly, but the rules were the rules. Moroso and a couple other companies who were tight with NHRA began making aluminum billet "balancers" immediately and everyone bought them so they'd be legal to race. All of a sudden, racers were getting only 10 passes from their crankshafts, which had previously lasted an entire season. Initially, most people thought the cranks were "bad", but after destroying engine after engine, a few knowledgeable engine people figured out where the problem actually was coming from and several companies that were capable of making functioning harmonic balancers sprang up over night. They are all still in the business to this day and their units are actually much better than the factory units of years before, as they are made from premium materials and optimized for high rpm applications. With this short bit of history finished, I'll begin to wind it up by stating what we do with the Honda engines. If the balancer has more belt grooves than the application needs, i.e. the power steering pulley, we machine it off. When it comes to the the pulleys that are actually a part of the outer portion of the balancer, we leave them intact. This procedure will not lighten the unbalanced hub substantialy, but the outer balancer ring will keep all its mass and function correctly. I also need to say that a large driven mass such as a blower or alternator, can have a slight dampening effect, but to actually work properly, the belt connecting the components to the crank would need to be 4" to 5" wide and the belt tension would be so great that it would wear out the number 1 main bearing as well as the bearings of the the driven parts in short order. It's especially important to keep the balancer "as is", if you're running an aluminum flywheel. The reduction in flywheel mass can also increase the pulsation shock strength and a higher level of vibration will immediately be observable. So if you lighten the flywheel,it's absolutely more necessary than ever to maintain the mass or the harmonic balancer. I realize that there's a lot of hype out there where manufacturers are promising this and that. The oversize crank pulleys can drive other geared or belted components faster due to the diameter ratio increase, but if you're deleting the balancer in the process, the short and long term side effects are going to hinge on your decisions. Larger diameter pulleys for the alternator, power steering and any other belt driven accessory are good ways to slow the speeds and drag of the those components, but when doing a large diameter crank pulley, the larger pulleys should actually be designed to fit "over" the stock balancer. Perhaps, someone will begin to make some good quality "functional" balancers some day, but until they do, you need to proceed carefully, as some good looks and minimal power gains can be off set by a ruined engine. I'm sure that there will be some fall out regarding what I'm saying here and to that effect I need to remind everyone that we do not manufacture hubs, big pulleys, or harmonic balancers for Hondas and none of what I've said is the least bit politically motivated.

And yes, any engine with a non-functional hub or balancer can ruin the crank driven oil pump and a whole lot more.

………………………….T.O.O. ………………………

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Post by Nikku » September 15, 2005

[quote="Dont Blink"]if high reving and harmonics didnt have anything to do with one another then companys like fluid damper or ATI. there are people that do have problems with civic N1 pully's. factory pullys have a rubber insert in them unorthodox pullys dont, fluid damper and ATI use a liquid. but what i wrote was just stateing what happened to me first hand , i never once said i dont drive my car hard and i never will because thats what i built it for. but i forget since your post count is so much higher than mine that you know more than me. so im gonna post up an artivcial of someone who knows more than both of us. this is an articial written from Larry at endyne. so if anyone has a little time to sit back and read its pretty interesting. then everyone can make there own decissions on what they wanna do.

I'll post a more complete rendition of this on the too site shortly, but let me begin by saying that it's good to be back and I'm only here to expressly address some questions that need some "good" answers. I am not here to provide schedules or any information regarding the blower program. The topic is that of aftermarket crank pulleys. Let me begin by saying that we have always called the pulley on the accessory drive end on the Honda cranks Harmonic Balancers. People never seemed to understand what we were talking about and so the word "pulley" was frequently used to avoid confusion. If you look carefully at a Honda "pulley", you'll find that it's not a single piece of metal. Typically, there's a nodular iron or steel hub and another "ring" of iron or steel surrounding it containing the belt grooves. The two parts are joined by a rubber layer, which is highly compressed and sandwiched between them. Why rubber? If you notice, many four cylinder engines over the years have used counter rotating shafts to help make the engine "feel" smoother. Reciprocating internal combustion engines and especially in-line four cylinder versions, all produce shock pulses, which are very apparent to the occupants of the car. Every engine produces a shock pulse each time an individual cylinder fires. So, in the case of the four cylinder variety, there are four large individual pulses for each 720 degrees of crank rotation. Each time there's a pulse, it causes the internal components to do a rapid acceleration-deceleration event. When you consider the mass of all the internal components and visualize all these parts stopping and starting during their reciprocating and rotating motions, the additional stress "spikes" tend to make it all the more reason for one to wonder how any of it can work for any length of time. The harmonic balancer is made with the rubber coupling so that, when the individual "spikes" occur, the inner portion may move with the crank, but the rubber connected outer ring's mass helps prevent the hub and crank from going as far or as fast during the spikes or pulses. Remember that the outer part had considerable mass, so it tends to want to stay in motion at the speed that it's traveling and that's why it can prevent excessive harsh motion by the crank and other internal parts. To put it simply, the harmonic balancer is a shock absorber for the engine and thus prevents the individual pulses from destroying everything in the engine. A quick bit of history]


please re-read my post again as i did not say high revving and harmonics have nothing to do with each other, i said that internal balance and harmonics have nothing to do with each other in the aspect of the pulley. i have read that info off of TOO before, and guess what, that forum is CLOSED and has been for some time, rather frustrating if you ask me. anyways, again there is still no EVIDENCE, just theory, theory and more theory that is supplied in this. FYI, post count means nothing. As for your comment about ATI and fluidamper, just because a company is in business, does not mean that they make something that you NEED. i can tell you that my springs will magically make your car handle like a JGTC car and get some crazy scientist to give some "technical" explanation about how it works for you to believe but that doesnt make it true. Again this article cites DOMESTIC engines, v8's in particular, totally different design and they DO have harmonic balancers, hondas do not. and all of his post is theory as well, not discrediting the guy as he is VERY smart and i have read all of his articles off that site but the problem is no one has ever submitted proof with a honda motor which is INTERNALLY balanced (unlike the v8's that are often cited)....again, oscilliscope, bearing inspection, etc is the only way to prove

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Post by mr.green » September 15, 2005

Wow, someone pissed in your wheaties today huh?


I think you need to relax a lil... if you think the crank pullies are so damn good, why don't you put one on your car and test it out yourself instead of calling bullshit on everyone else?
He's telling you his experience and 2 others experiences as well...the crank pulley was a common factor in the cars. I feel it's safe to say that Don't Blink has FAR more experince with Honda's and engine building then you do, so I would take his considerations more then yours....

Is it necc. to call people liars and call bullshit on an internet forum over a crank pulley?
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Post by Nikku » September 15, 2005

mr.green wrote:Wow, someone pissed in your wheaties today huh?


I think you need to relax a lil... if you think the crank pullies are so damn good, why don't you put one on your car and test it out yourself instead of calling bullshit on everyone else?
He's telling you his experience and 2 others experiences as well...the crank pulley was a common factor in the cars. I feel it's safe to say that Don't Blink has FAR more experince with Honda's and engine building then you do, so I would take his considerations more then yours....

Is it necc. to call people liars and call bullshit on an internet forum over a crank pulley?

re-read his post, he COPIED AND PASTED THAT ARTICLE FROM ENDYN......i think you are too quick to accuse my friend, i have helped build numerous cars with aftermarket pulleys all of which are still in operation today with no failure, i am not calling "bullshit" on everyone else.....what i am saying is that everyone is perpitrating a myth without facts to back it up....i think someone hath pissed in YOUR weeties my friend

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Post by tommybanzai » September 15, 2005

so, anyways,,,stopping arguing girls....as we know we won't come a general concensus on this situation.

how about people post some ideas/suggetions about how or why changing the factory to a lightened crank pullley benefits your car?

would the combo of a lightened fly wheel and aftermarket/light crank pulley have more of an adverse affect on an engine other than drastic rpm drop between shifts? (my on curious question to the members) ...know what i mean
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Post by Nikku » September 16, 2005

tommybanzai wrote:so, anyways,,,stopping arguing girls....as we know we won't come a general concensus on this situation.

how about people post some ideas/suggetions about how or why changing the factory to a lightened crank pullley benefits your car?

would the combo of a lightened fly wheel and aftermarket/light crank pulley have more of an adverse affect on an engine other than drastic rpm drop between shifts? (my on curious question to the members) ...know what i mean

the RPM drop is mainly a result from the flywheel as the weight reduction on it is huge, as opposed to the flywheel weight drop is rather low, but the 2 combined together would definately produce a faster revving engine and due to the loss of mass you have a loss of inertia so your RPM does drop faster between shifts but its not drastic.

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Post by tommybanzai » September 16, 2005

temp wrote:
tommybanzai wrote:so, anyways,,,stopping arguing girls....as we know we won't come a general concensus on this situation.

how about people post some ideas/suggetions about how or why changing the factory to a lightened crank pullley benefits your car?

would the combo of a lightened fly wheel and aftermarket/light crank pulley have more of an adverse affect on an engine other than drastic rpm drop between shifts? (my on curious question to the members) ...know what i mean

the RPM drop is mainly a result from the flywheel as the weight reduction on it is huge, as opposed to the flywheel weight drop is rather low, but the 2 combined together would definately produce a faster revving engine and due to the loss of mass you have a loss of inertia so your RPM does drop faster between shifts but its not drastic.
true, and i have noticed that cars seem a little less fierce with a combo like you are talking, but they tend to keep the contact of the tires a little better...versus breaking them loose since their is such a loss of inertia

thanks for the reply, good explanation

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Post by Sean @ NDF » September 16, 2005

^^ I'm not so sure on the contact of the tires. However, my 8lb aluminum flywheel does rev much faster than the stock one. I would imagine, without it, the tires would behave in the same way though

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Post by Nikku » September 16, 2005

tommybanzai wrote:
temp wrote:
tommybanzai wrote:so, anyways,,,stopping arguing girls....as we know we won't come a general concensus on this situation.

how about people post some ideas/suggetions about how or why changing the factory to a lightened crank pullley benefits your car?

would the combo of a lightened fly wheel and aftermarket/light crank pulley have more of an adverse affect on an engine other than drastic rpm drop between shifts? (my on curious question to the members) ...know what i mean

the RPM drop is mainly a result from the flywheel as the weight reduction on it is huge, as opposed to the flywheel weight drop is rather low, but the 2 combined together would definately produce a faster revving engine and due to the loss of mass you have a loss of inertia so your RPM does drop faster between shifts but its not drastic.
true, and i have noticed that cars seem a little less fierce with a combo like you are talking, but they tend to keep the contact of the tires a little better...versus breaking them loose since their is such a loss of inertia

thanks for the reply, good explanation
less fierce? i think you are mistaken, a lightened flywheel drastically changes your driving experience, once you get a lightened flywheel you will never want to go back to stoc k weights

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